Adjusting to Beyoglu

The school I will be working for is in the Beyoglu district of Istanbul, and is very close to Taksim square. Taksim and Beyoglu are the heart of modern Istanbul, and this is where I now find myself. Taksim is a huge transportation hub, and the busy square is surrounded on all sides by restaurants, […]

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Dogs

Then there are the dogs, mentioned by every Western traveler to pass through Istanbul during the nineteenth century, from Lamartine and Gerard de Nerval to Mark Twain; they continue to bring drama to the city’s streets. They all look alike, their coats all the same color for which no one has a name – a […]

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Refuge of the Roads

Just about a year ago, I went camping a few weeks before I departed for my three month stint of traveling through the Balkans. I remember that weekend really giving Joni Mitchell’s Hejira a good listening, and was really struck by the mood of the album. She said of it: “I wrote the album while […]

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